Discover rooibos: its history, production, flavors, and challenges

Les Jardins de Gaïa’s journey with rooibos began in 1996 with an initial purchase from rooibos producers in Wupperthal, who had not yet formed a cooperative. This encounter—sparked by an immediate love for the flavor and accompanied by the discovery of a magnificent country—quickly became a wonderful human adventure built on trust and respect.

This unique plant grows at the southern tip of the African continent and is recognizable by its fine, needle-like leaves and its deep red infusion. Often called “red tea,” rooibos is not actually tea. It does not come from the tea plant (Camellia sinensis), but from a South African shrub called Aspalathus linearis, a legume belonging to the Fabaceae family.

Naturally free of caffeine, it captivates with its full-bodied and warm flavor, which—depending on its region of origin—can offer herbal, vanilla, honeyed, and fruity notes such as apple, spicy notes like clove, or even floral notes like magnolia.

But rooibos is about more than just the pleasure of drinking it. Behind every cup enjoyed lies an exceptional region, human stories, and expertise passed down through several generations. This plant, which grows exclusively in a mountainous region of South Africa—in the heart of the Cederberg, between the Western Cape and the Northern Cape—is the treasure of a unique natural environment called the fynbos, which, in some respects, resembles the Mediterranean maquis.

Rooibos is central to the daily lives of the Khoisan, the indigenous peoples who live in these arid and magnificent lands, where they have developed a long tradition of herbalism—particularly centered on rooibos—to nourish themselves and treat ailments.

Harvested in the wild for centuries, the red bush was gradually cultivated and marketed worldwide in the 20th century. Today, it has become a true symbol of resilience in the face of the environmental and social challenges affecting this region.

For behind this deep garnet-colored infusion lies a vital issue: preserving an ancestral culture, protecting an ecosystem weakened by climate change, and enabling small South African producers to continue making a dignified living from their craft.

Rooibos, a Natural Treasure of South Africa’s Fynbos

Rooibos grows in a very limited area of southwestern South Africa, primarily in the Cederberg Mountains and on the Suid Bokkeveld Plateau. This region is home to the fynbos, one of the world’s most biodiverse ecosystems.

The word “fynbos” means “fine bush” in Afrikaans and refers to all the needle-like plants in the region that are adapted to the Mediterranean climate, characterized by long, hot, and dry summers. In this landscape of mountains, rocks, and vast wild expanses growsAspalathus linearis, a small shrub with slender, needle-like leaves that produces rooibos. Rooibos is one of 278 species in the genus Aspalathus, a group of flowering plants in the Fabaceae family that also includes legumes such as beans, peas, and broom.

The word “linearis” refers to the linear, needle-like shape of its leaves.

Rooibos is distinguished by its remarkable adaptability. In its natural environment and in the wild, it develops a complex root system capable of withstanding the harsh conditions of the Cederberg: prolonged droughts, poor soil, strong winds, and frequent wildfires.

Its deep roots allow it to draw water from deep underground, while its shallow roots capture available moisture and facilitate exchanges with other soil organisms. Some wild varieties have even developed an astonishing ability to regenerate after fires, a natural phenomenon essential to the renewal—and thus the survival—of the fynbos.

This millennia-old adaptation explains why wild rooibos is now the subject of intensive study by scientists seeking solutions to the effects of climate change. As periods of drought become more frequent and prolonged, this plant copes with the constraints imposed by nature and the effects of climate change.

A History Closely Tied to the Khoisan Peoples of South Africa

Long before it became a tea enjoyed around the world, rooibos was already part of daily life for the Khoisan peoples, the original inhabitants of this region of South Africa. Harvested in the wild in the Cederberg Mountains and on the Suid Bokkeveld plateau, it was prized both for its flavor and its medicinal properties. Knowledge about this plant was passed down from generation to generation: recognizing the best shrubs, knowing how to harvest the bushes without damaging them, and mastering the oxidation and drying processes that give rooibos its distinctive flavor.

Commercial production of rooibos began on a small scale in 1904 after the first plantations were established in the northern Cederberg Mountains and on the Suid Bokkeveld Plateau in the western part of the country, near Namibia.

In the 1920s, Benjamin Ginsberg, a tea importer based in the Cape region, introduced this infusion to the rest of the world, notably by exporting it to Russia, where drinking rooibos quickly became popular. This initial international expansion accompanied the industry’s gradual growth.

Faced with growing demand, producers began to organize. The Clanwilliam Tea Cooperative, the country’s first rooibos cooperative, was founded in 1948 to organize production and better regulate the market. In 1954, a Rooibos Tea Control Board was established to oversee its marketing. It fulfilled this role until 1993, when the sector was liberalized.

However, the growth of rooibos production and marketing was significantly hampered by the country’s political and social upheavals. For decades, land policies linked to apartheid restricted the black population’s access to agricultural land. Beginning in 1994, with Nelson Mandela’s rise to power, land redistribution reforms gradually opened up new opportunities for communities that had previously been excluded.

It was against this backdrop that the Wupperthal and Heiveld cooperatives were founded in 1999 and 2000, respectively, in the Northern Cape Province. As pioneers in fair trade, they champion a different, small-scale production model based on cooperation, the promotion of local expertise, and respect for the environment. Over the years, they have strengthened their autonomy by developing their infrastructure, investing in more sustainable practices, and gradually gaining access to land ownership—a true revolution!

The Wupperthal and Heiveld Cooperatives: An Alternative Model for Rooibos Production

Since 1996, Les Jardins de Gaïa —pioneers in importing organic rooibos to France—have been working with South African producers committed to organic farming and fair trade. Our history with rooibos began with the rooibos producers in Wupperthal, before expanding a few years later to include those in Heiveld.

The Wupperthal Cooperative

Located in a mountainous region with challenging climatic conditions, the Wupperthal Cooperative is a pioneer: since its founding in 1999, it has produced rooibos using organic farming methods and received Fair Trade certification in 2005.

Today, it has 63 members whose crops are spread over approximately 175.64 hectares. Among them, 26 producers are “Demeter” certified (1) and practice biodynamic agriculture to improve soil fertility and strengthen the plantations’ resilience to climatic challenges.

Over the years, the cooperative has developed innovative farming practices to address drought and soil depletion. Its goal is to produce high-quality rooibos while preserving the natural balance of its terroir.

The Heiveld Cooperative

Further north, the Heiveld Cooperative, founded in 2000, began marketing certified organic rooibos as early as 2001, obtained Naturland and Fairtrade certifications in 2003, and then its own certifications in 2004. It comprises 74 members who cultivate approximately 500 plots spread across nearly 1,150 hectares. Deeply committed to fair trade, the cooperative has enabled many small-scale producers—particularly women and young people—to gain access to land and develop sustainable agricultural activities.

Beyond rooibos production, Heiveld also carries out projects related to environmental conservation, the transfer of traditional knowledge, and local economic development.

In particular, it partners with theNGO Indigo Development & Change, which we support through our “Semeuses d’avenir” rooibos.

These two cooperatives embody a different approach to rooibos production: a form of agriculture where the quality of the finished product is inseparable from respect for the producers, the soil, and biodiversity in general.

How is rooibos made?

Rooibos production is rooted in ancestral know-how, passed down from generation to generation. While techniques have evolved over time, the major stages of processing remain deeply rooted in traditional methods.

Just a few decades ago, rooibos was harvested directly from the wild fynbos. The twigs, cut with a sickle, were then transported on donkey-drawn carts to the processing sites. The branches were crushed on large flat stones, moistened, and then left in the open air to allow for the plant’s natural oxidation, which changes its color from green to red. This essential step also allows rooibos to develop its sweet, fruity aromas. After this processing, the plant was sun-dried before being sorted and packaged.

Today, production has been modernized with the use of machinery, but the basic process remains very similar. In the Wupperthal and Heiveld cooperatives, processing continues to take place as close as possible to the growing areas in order to preserve the quality of the rooibos and keep the bulk of the added value within the producing communities.

From the Rooibos Harvest to the Garnet-Red Infusion

The rooibos harvest takes place mainly during the southern hemisphere summer, from early January through late March. In our partner cooperatives, producers work with both cultivated and wild rooibos—two different forms of the same plant.

Special care is taken during the harvesting of wild rooibos. Unlike cultivated plantations, it grows naturally in the fynbos and is a fragile resource that must be preserved. Every area where wild rooibos grows is cataloged, and harvesting is strictly regulated and requires a permit. All harvesters are specially trained to respect the plant’s natural cycle and avoid damaging the bushes.

Only sufficiently developed shoots from bushes older than three years are harvested. The same area may be harvested only once every two years to allow the rooibos plant to regenerate. This respectful approach ensures the plant’s long-term sustainability.

After harvesting, the twigs are cut into small pieces before undergoing the key processing step: oxidation.

Oxidation: The Secret Behind Rooibos’ Color and Aromas

Contrary to popular belief, rooibos does not undergo fermentation in the strict sense of the term. Rather, it is a natural oxidation process caused by the leaves’ exposure to oxygen in the air.

After grinding, the rooibos is lightly moistened and then piled up by the producers in what they call the “tea yard,” a large outdoor concrete area. For about twenty-four hours, they closely monitor this stage, during which the appearance of the leaves gradually changes. During this oxidation phase, enzymes naturally present in the leaves catalyze the oxidation of phenolic compounds—notably aspalathin—upon contact with oxygen. This reaction changes the color of the leaves from green to reddish-brown and produces the mild, woody, and slightly sweet aromas characteristic of red rooibos. Once this transformation is complete, the rooibos is spread out to dry naturally in the sun. It is then sorted, inspected, sterilized, and packaged before being shipped worldwide.

Red Rooibos and Green Rooibos: What Are the Differences?

When people talk about rooibos, they usually mean red rooibos, the variety most commonly found in stores and tea houses. Its deep garnet color and warm flavor, accompanied by rich, indulgent notes, are the result of the natural oxidation process that follows harvesting.

But Les Jardins de Gaïa also offers green rooibos, produced through a different processing method. In this case, oxidation is intentionally halted to preserve the plant’s natural color—much like the early stages of green tea production. The green rooibos infusion thus retains the plant’s original flavor profile, with a vegetal, somewhat herbaceous character that is fresh and sometimes slightly tart.

Producing green rooibos therefore requires greater attention and responsiveness on the part of producers, as the plant must be processed quickly after harvest.

Less well-known than its red cousin, green rooibos is now winning over many tea enthusiasts seeking fresh, delicate, and unique flavor profiles. We use it as the base for our “Respire la vie” blend, where its fresh, vegetal profile highlights the fruity notes of the blackberry-blueberry duo, the floral notes of lavender, and the spicy notes of mace.

Cultivated rooibos and wild rooibos: two sides of the same plant

Although they belong to the same botanical species, cultivated rooibos and wild rooibos do not share the same degree of adaptability and resilience in the face of climate change.

Cultivated rooibos is now the primary source of global production. Its high yield has enabled the development of a thriving agricultural industry, and many South African families make their living from this activity.

However, cultivated rooibos has certain vulnerabilities. The bushes have a limited lifespan, generally between seven and eight years, and are more susceptible to extreme weather events. Repeated droughts therefore force producers to adapt their practices by reducing harvest yields in order to strengthen the crops’ resilience. Furthermore, this type of rooibos is not fire-resistant, which makes it even more vulnerable in a climate prone to wildfires.

In contrast, wild rooibos grows spontaneously in its natural environment. It has adapted over centuries to the harsh conditions of the Cederberg. Its deep roots allow it to seek out water during dry periods, and its interaction with other fynbos plants fosters a particularly rich and resilient ecological balance.

Some wild varieties are even capable of regrowing after a fire—a crucial phenomenon in this ecosystem where fire is part of the natural cycle.

In some regions, farmers have lost a significant portion—or even all—of their cultivated plantations during periods of severe drought, while some wild populations have continued to survive.

Aromatic Profiles and Benefits: What Our Study Reveals!

To better understand the specific characteristics of its various rooibos varieties—both in terms of flavor and potential health benefits—Les Jardins de Gaïa commissioned a study from the Twistaroma laboratory.

The results demonstrate the South African plant’s value as a source of antioxidants and its wide variety of flavors depending on its origin.

Rooibos: Naturally Rich in Antioxidants

The study conducted by the laboratory immediately highlights the significant antioxidant activity of the three rooibos varieties analyzed: wild rooibos, Wupperthal rooibos, and Heiveld rooibos.

Although their chemical compositions show some differences, their antioxidant potential is generally comparable.

Of the 56 phenolic compounds identified, 21 exhibit antioxidant activity. One of the compounds found in particularly high concentrations is ferulic acid. This natural compound is an organic acid studied for its major role in protecting against oxidative stress (2). It is also used in certain cosmetic products, particularly those designed to protect the skin against the effects of skin aging.

According to the laboratory’s analyses, a 150-ml infusion exhibits antioxidant activity comparable to that of approximately 150 g of red cabbage or cherries.

Three origins, three flavor profiles: rooibos reveals its full range of flavors

While wild rooibos, Wupperthal rooibos, and Heiveld rooibos have broadly comparable antioxidant potential, they differ markedly in their aromatic profiles.

The study identified 16 volatile compounds responsible for the differences in aroma and flavor among these three origins. These aromatic molecules reflect their terroir and the unique relationship between the plant and its environment.

Rooibos therefore does not produce a uniform infusion: as with certain fine teas or wines, its character depends deeply on the growing region, agricultural practices, and local expertise.

These three very distinct profiles offer a variety of pleasures while allowing you to discover the richness of this South African plant.

Wupperthal Rooibos: Herbal and Fruity Notes

The rooibos produced by the Wupperthal cooperative is distinguished in particular by a high concentration of trans-2-hexenol, an aromatic compound associated with fresh, herbaceous notes.

This characteristic gives it an elegant, herbal profile, with a predominantly herbaceous flavor accompanied by very fruity nuances. The infusion reveals a natural sweetness and a lovely lingering finish—qualities particularly appreciated by connoisseurs of authentic rooibos.

This aromatic profile, which is both fruity and herbaceous, is intimately linked to the exceptional terroir of Wupperthal, a mountainous region where producers cultivate their rooibos amidst an environmental richness unique in the world.

Heiveld Rooibos: A Delicate Floral Expression

Rooibos from the Heiveld cooperative, on the other hand, has a very different aromatic profile. Analysis revealed a high concentration of geranylacetone, a compound relatively rare in foods, associated with floral notes reminiscent of magnolia.

This distinctive feature gives Heiveld rooibos an original and slightly ethereal character, with a floral quality that lends great finesse to the infusion.

It illustrates the importance of terroir in the final expression of a cup of rooibos: the same botanical species can offer very different profiles depending on the natural conditions in which it grows.

Wild rooibos: an infusion with rich and spicy aromas

Of the three samples studied, wild rooibos is certainly the one with the most distinctive aromatic profile. Two compounds are particularly associated with it: β-damascenone and eugenol.

β-damascenone is synonymous with notes of apple and honey, sometimes evoking the sweetness of applesauce. Eugenol, on the other hand, develops nuances reminiscent of cloves, a spice often associated with a warm and complex character. This combination gives rise to an infusion with a unique character and particularly rich aromas.

Rooibos Faces Environmental Challenges: Producers on the Front Lines

Today, rooibos cultivation faces a major challenge: climate change.

In the Cederberg, growers have been observing significant changes in their environment for several years: longer periods of drought, less regular rainfall, and more intense heat waves.

Yet rooibos is a plant naturally adapted to harsh conditions. For centuries, it has grown in an environment characterized by water scarcity and poor soil. But the acceleration of climate-related phenomena is now upsetting this balance and directly endangering the small-scale producers who depend on this crop.

The exceptional drought of 2017 served as an early warning sign for the Heiveld and Wupperthal cooperatives. For Heiveld, this extreme weather event resulted in a loss of approximately 18 metric tons of production—nearly one-third of its usual annual output.

In Wupperthal, the impact on the cooperative’s cash flow was particularly severe. Producers had to factor the cost of droughts into their pricing decisions for rooibos in order to continue growing the plant under favorable conditions.

These events have also accelerated a growing realization: the future of rooibos will depend on producers’ ability to adapt their farming practices.

Biodynamics: A Sustainable Response to Recurring Droughts

Faced with the environmental challenges of the early 21st century, some producers have chosen to explore new agricultural approaches based on respect for natural balances. This is particularly true of the Wupperthal cooperative, which has gradually adopted biodynamic farming after Arlette Rohmer, founder of Les Jardins de Gaïa, suggested this approach to her friend Barend Salomo in 2016.

At this suggestion, the cooperative director’s face lit up. “I can already see the rooibos bushes dancing and swaying gracefully in the wind! ” he murmured. For him, “humans and nature must remain partners ”(3).

Biodynamic agriculture is based on a fundamental principle: to sustain rooibos production in the long term, we must first and foremost care for the soil and nourish it. Giving back to the earth what it gives us… Biodynamics thus seeks to enhance the soil’s natural fertility, promote its microbial life, and create a better balance between plants and their environment.

It is on the Vaalheuning Plateau—in an unspoiled natural setting at the heart of a protected “floral kingdom,” at an altitude of over 1,000 meters—that growers have been experimenting with this approach since 2017 under particularly challenging conditions. Initially, there were five farmers ready to embark on this daring venture, since here the rooibos bushes must make do with very poor soil and are subjected to regular, intense winds as well as drought.

This was the first experiment in biodynamic rooibos cultivation in South Africa, carried out with the support of the Demeter training center in Stellenbosch, which trained the growers.

Today, the bushes growing in this land—now carefully tended and nourished with various biodynamic preparations—have already surpassed the theoretical maximum lifespan of a cultivated rooibos plant, which is usually replaced every eight years.

They are still there, resilient and surprisingly lush, with roots deeply anchored in the soil, weathering adversity. This is unprecedented, according to the Wupperthal growers. Biodynamic farming thus appears to be the missing link between the innate resilience of wild rooibos and the yield of conventional organic rooibos.

The success of this experiment has gradually brought other producers into the cooperative. There are now 26 certified farmers. This is very encouraging for the future of this rooibos with such a distinctive flavor—one that enthusiasts appreciate for its unique character, which is both intense and very fruity.

Men and Women Committed to the Future of Rooibos

Every rooibos cooperative is also a community of women and men united by a common goal: to preserve an ancestral culture while opening new opportunities for future generations.

Maria Magdalena Kotze: Passing on the Legacy at the Heart of the Heiveld Cooperative

A descendant of one of the founding families of the Heiveld cooperative, Maria Magdalena Kotze—known as “Lena”—is familiar with every stage of the rooibos supply chain. She joined the cooperative at age 21 after several years of seasonal work and is equally skilled in the cultivation, harvesting, and processing of both wild and cultivated rooibos. Her experience has made her a true point of reference for other producers.

Together with her mother, Beth, she has specialized in seed collection and processing and supplies part of the cooperative’s seed needs. This valuable work helps strengthen the farmers’ self-reliance. Also active with the NGO Indigo on issues of biodiversity and climate change, Lena shares far more than just farming techniques: she plays an active role in preserving the future of rooibos and her region.

Her exemplary commitment to the community and the quality of her work have earned her the trust of the members of the Heiveld cooperative: in June 2024, she was elected chair of the cooperative’s executive committee. She is the first woman to hold this position.

She is pictured in the first photo below.

Barend Salomo: Passing on a Deep Connection with Nature

A former teacher, Barend Salomo left his native region to study in Cape Town before returning to live in Wupperthal with his wife, Emily. Alongside his job as a court clerk, he began growing rooibos, a plant that, in his words, “runs through the veins of the Khoisan people.”

As a child, he learned from his parents how to harvest rooibos without damaging the bushes and how to process its leaves to make the red infusion enjoyed by the family. This legacy now fuels his commitment to biodynamics. By working to restore soils weakened by monoculture and intensive farming, Barend seeks to “breathe new life” into the land and preserve its fertility for future generations.

For him, growing rooibos isn’t just about producing a plant—it’s about maintaining a sustainable balance between people, the earth, and nature.

He is pictured in the second photo below.