Darjeeling black teas: the expression of an exceptional terroir

Brij Mohan, a visionary tea professional who helped put Darjeeling on the map

Brij Mohan arrived in Darjeeling in 1950 at the age of 23, beginning his career at the Arya Tea Estate. He later became director and superintendent of numerous estates in Darjeeling, the Dooars, and Assam. He also served as a tea consultant and director of the West Bengal Tea Development Corporation before founding, in 1980, the company Tea Promoters of India (TPI), with which we have worked since our inception.

This great lover of tea dedicated his life to restoring the reputation of the tea gardens under his care. Early in his career, he played a key role in ensuring a smooth transition for the gardens following the 1947 declaration of independence. He is best known for taking over numerous tea plantations that had been left virtually abandoned through his company, Tea Promoters of India. His goal was to enable small-scale producers to manage their own production while promoting organic farming, biodynamics, and fair trade. Today, the company operates in four regions of India where exclusively organic or even biodynamic teas are produced: Darjeeling, the Dooars, Assam, and Kerala.

The main reason for his success is likely his friendly and caring approach toward tea workers. Brij Mohan also made significant efforts to promote the role of women in tea cultivation. The Samabeong school, the first to be built on site, bears his name and was constructed using fair trade premiums. Remarkably for India, the Samabeong tea garden, with the support of Tea Promoter of India, is itself managed by a woman, Bhawana Rai.

It is in honor of Brij Mohan that we have named the main meeting room at our company headquarters the “Mohan Room.” We like to think that this place where our ideas take shape resonates daily with those of this great tea man who succeeded in spreading the Darjeeling name far beyond its borders, always upholding the values of social justice and environmental preservation.

Darjeeling Teas: Much More Than Just Black Teas

Black teas are the most iconic of Darjeeling and are sought after for their distinctive flavor profile, which stands out clearly from those produced in other parts of the world. Early-harvest black teas, in particular, are characterized by a surprisingly clear and luminous infusion and a freshness found only in this terroir. This uniqueness is largely due to Darjeeling’s altitude and the slow growth of the tea plants, which allow for an exceptional concentration of aromas.

Beyond black teas, local producers have been exploring new avenues in recent years with a growing range of green teas, white teas, and even a few semi-oxidized teas.

One example is our "Snowview Claws," a delicate organic first-flush white tea composed solely of hand-plucked buds, with flavours of ripe fruit accompanied by subtle spicy notes.

Among our green teas, Selimbong Green, from the prestigious eponymous garden—a pioneer in biodynamics—demonstrates that Darjeeling can produce excellent green teas with fresh and pleasantly sweet notes.

Finally, among the semi-oxidized teas—and still from the same garden—we can also mention our Selimbong Summer Oolong, which is unique in that it was crafted from a summer harvest, the very one in which we often find the typical notes of Muscat grapes. The result is a very aromatic and mellow infusion, with hints of chestnut and red berries, which retains the typical freshness of Darjeeling teas.

These few examples, which we warmly invite you to discover, demonstrate the dynamism of local producers and their constant drive to innovate while preserving the signature character of Darjeeling teas.

A unique character due to the rhythm of its harvests and the diversity of its tea plants

What makes Darjeeling teas so unique is the subtle combination of many factors. Beyond the terroir itself, the harvest seasons and the different varieties of tea plants used play a central role.

Flavours that evolve with each harvest

Each season in the Darjeeling district leaves its mark on the tea leaves, directly influencing their character.

In spring, when the tea plants emerge from their winter dormancy, the young shoots yield an infusion of remarkable freshness. It is at this time that our "first flush" is harvested between March and April. They yield cups with vegetal and fruity flavours, often accompanied by delicate floral notes of white flowers (lily of the valley, jasmine), roses, or violets. These light and vibrant Darjeeling grand crus are the result of a meticulous picking process that selects only the bud and the first two leaves, which are particularly rich in aromatic compounds as spring awakens. The liquor, supple and clear, possesses a liveliness reminiscent of green teas—a rarity for a black tea. These prestigious grand crus, which celebrate the effervescence of spring, are highly sought after by connoisseurs and have greatly contributed to the fame of this terroir.

When summer arrives, the leaves mature and give rise to more structured teas. This is the harvest period for our “second flush,” which takes place from May to June. These Darjeeling teas have a very different aromatic profile. Under the influence of more intense sunlight, the leaves become thick and produce a full-bodied tea infusion. This type of harvest is often characterized by the famous “muscat” note, reminiscent of ripe grapes, accompanied by hints of honey and dried fruit. The liquor, more powerful and structured, is dark in color and often offers a more lingering aromatic experience on the palate that appeals to connoisseurs seeking complexity and depth.

In the fall, the teas take on a more enveloping quality. This is the harvest season for our "third flush," which takes place from October to November. This harvest exhibits a typically autumnal character with a softer, warmer profile. Make way for roundness with notes of wood, ripe yellow fruits, and spices. The liquor shimmers with amber hues and offers a lovely roundness on the palate. These Darjeeling teas, often overlooked, appeal for their balance and a less pronounced character, likely to please a wider range of people.

But beyond the seasons, whether they originate from China or are the result of local selections and crossbreeding, the tea plants used also greatly influence the flavours of the final tea.

Century-old tea plants from China to new cultivars grown locally

The organoleptic richness of black tea from the Himalayan foothills relies largely on the diversity of the tea plants and their interaction with this mountainous terroir. The first gardens were primarily planted with Camellia sinensis var. sinensis, locally known as "chinary," and these ancient shrubs produce particularly delicate and low-astringency teas. This is the case with our “Seeyok Royal Reserve,” a Darjeeling tea harvested in summer from the highest part of the prestigious high-altitude Seeyok garden, which is home to tea plants over a century old! This black tea alone embodies the entire history and richness of the teas from this terroir through its complex, refined aromatic profile, devoid of bitterness.

Subsequently, the gradual introduction of new “cultivars” has allowed for greater diversity in the Darjeeling tea offering. The word “cultivar,” a contraction of “cultivated varieties,” refers to a group of plants that share the same genetic characteristics and have been obtained through a combination of selection and crossbreeding (particularly with the Assamica variety of Camellia sinensis).

Like grape varieties in the wine world, these cultivars offer greater resistance to disease and drought. They also allow for the development of new flavor profiles.

Among the highest-quality cultivars is the very famous AV2 (Ambari Vegetative 2), the result of a research program launched in 1967 by the Tocklai* experimental station located in Jorhat, Assam.

Unlike traditional methods based on seed selection, this program aimed to select and crossbreed the best existing plants.

Its original name was "Ambari Balai 2" and paid tribute to Balai Saha, the director of the "Ambari" estate in the 1960s. After trials in several regions, notably in Darjeeling, it was officially renamed "Ambari Vegetative 2" (AV2). Today, it is one of the region’s most popular cultivars, producing delicate grand crus that reflect the finesse of its leaves. It is particularly rich in L-theanine, an amino acid that imparts great smoothness, and in aromatic essential oils with fruity and floral notes. This cultivar is notably the basis for the production of our black tea "Himalayan Secret," winner of the 2023 Silver Medal at the "Les Thés du Monde" International Tea Competition organized by the AVPA.

Another cultivar widely used in Darjeeling for the production of grand cru teas is P312 (Phoobsering 312), which offers a very balanced profile, combining vegetal freshness, floral nuances, and a slight astringency, making it a highly versatile cultivar. This cultivar is notably used in Samabeong for the production of our magnificent spring black tea "Tara's Offering," which won the 2022 Gold Medal at the "Les Thés du Monde" International Tea Competition organized by the AVPA.

Thus, the organoleptic differences between the various Darjeeling teas, ranging from delicate floral profiles to rich and persistent fruity expressions, can be partly explained by the nature of the cultivars used. Each cultivar has its own biochemical signature, influencing the composition of catechins, amino acids, and volatile compounds, which determines the final sensory experience in the cup. This diversity, combined with Darjeeling’s unique soil and climate conditions and the producers’ expertise, forms the foundation of this region’s exceptional character.

The Darjeeling gardens we work with: an ode to diversity

At Les Jardins de Gaïa, our approach to tea is based above all on human relationships. Behind every tea we offer, there is a garden, a team whose every member we know, and a story in which we play a part. Each garden has its own signature that is reflected in the cup.

The Seeyok tea garden, for example, is in our eyes a true ode to life. Established in 1869 and overlooked by Mount Kangchenjunga, it thrives in a preserved environment, surrounded by dense forests where remarkable wildlife coexists: birds, pangolins, leopards, and even Himalayan salamanders. The excellence of its teas rests on a subtle balance between tradition and innovation: ancient tea trees, some over 150 years old, grow alongside new, carefully selected cultivars. Biodynamic farming is practiced here with the utmost rigor, yielding teas of great intensity and singular depth.

Higher up, the Samabeong garden stands out at an altitude of 2,000 meters. Nestled in wild nature, it embodies both a commitment to quality and social responsibility toward its employees. As Darjeeling’s first Fair Trade-certified garden, it produces award-winning spring teas while maintaining a deliberately limited production. Here, the cultivation of Camellia sinensis is also a human adventure: it sustains entire communities, preserving demanding craftsmanship under sometimes extreme conditions—from icy winds and monsoons to steep slopes.

At the Selimbong tea garden, famous for its black teas with muscat notes (muscatel), the harmony between man and nature reaches an almost spiritual dimension. Perched at an altitude of 1,600 meters and cultivated using biodynamic methods, this pioneering biodynamic tea garden is distinguished by its iron-rich soil and unique practices, such as the nighttime harvest of "Full Moon Spirit," picked by the light of the full moon. In this environment where humans and wild animals live in balance, every action seems guided by respect for natural cycles and a deep connection to life.

Other sites complete this mosaic: the Singell tea garden, one of the oldest, where some tea plants are over 150 years old; the Snowview garden, where wildlife shares the steep slopes with Camellia sinensis bushes; and the cooperatives of small-scale tea producers such as Mineral Spring or Subarna, which are reinventing sustainable agricultural models, blending organic farming, solidarity, and economic autonomy.

Thus, the Darjeeling region is not merely a prestigious origin protected by a recognized geographical indication: it is a world apart, where every cup of tea tells a story of the encounter between a place, a history, and dedicated men and women. It is this human richness, this diversity of terroirs, and this constant pursuit of quality that resonate deeply with our vision of the world of tea.

Organic and biodynamic farming as a catalyst for the rebirth of Darjeeling’s tea gardens

Since our inception, we have championed agriculture that respects life, primarily through organic farming. In the Darjeeling district, this choice takes on full meaning with the revival of numerous gardens, accompanied by new, more eco-responsible practices.

All the local producers we work with have chosen organic farming to eliminate chemical inputs and preserve soil quality, biodiversity, and the health of both workers and consumers.

But they have gone even further. All these Darjeeling gardens, even if they are not certified, have adopted the principles of biodynamic agriculture, whose standards are far more rigorous than those of organic farming.

This approach, which views a cultivation site as a living organism, relies on specific practices aimed at strengthening natural balance. Biodynamic preparations, the widespread use of vermicompost to nourish tea plants, respect for lunar cycles, and careful observation of nature enable the production of teas with great vitality.

For us, these practices are not merely technical choices. They reflect a worldview in which agriculture becomes a committed act, serving the earth and future generations.

And the result is evident both on the faces of the pickers, who feel safe during the harvests, and in the cup, where every sip of tea is the true expression of a terroir…

The Darjeeling region’s PGI: essential protection for teas that are often imitated

The Darjeeling terroir covers approximately 18,000 hectares, representing just 0.5% of India’s total tea production. Darjeeling tea is therefore the product of small-scale harvests, and fraud is common. In this context, and to protect this prestigious appellation from counterfeits, the "Tea Board of India," the Indian government agency responsible for regulating and promoting tea, has taken steps to safeguard the appellation.

It initiated and championed the recognition of the name “Darjeeling” as a geographical indication to protect its origin and quality. This recognition became official in India in 2004, and subsequently at the international level, including in Europe.

Darjeeling tea is now one of the few teas to benefit from a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) in Europe, a status it has held since October 20, 2011.

This protection is now essential to preserve Darjeeling’s identity and combat imitations. It ensures greater transparency for consumers, who can thus trust the origin and quality of the teas they purchase. With the Darjeeling logo appearing on all our packaging for this origin, we guarantee full traceability.